April | 2024

I set out that day with a simple plan: photograph as many south shore Lake Superior lighthouses as possible en route from Ashland to Sault Ste. Marie. Of the potential locations, Crisp Point was the one I was most excited to see. Described as remote and somewhat challenging to reach, time permitting, it would be my final grab for the day.

While photographing at nearby Whitefish Point, I talked with a local who was interested in my planned route to Crisp Point. “There’s a better way to get there than backtracking along state roads,” he said. “Take the West Vermillion Road route. It won’t save you much time, but it’s scenic and cuts off about 20 miles driving distance.” It sounded tempting, after all, I was here to photograph!

I pulled out my smartphone for a sanity check, and sure enough, his recommendation was a suggested option on Google Maps: a faint line weaving through the woods. I hesitated, noting that much of it spanned single-track dirt roads. My rental car was a Jeep Cherokee, though, and he assured me it would easily handle the terrain. I decided to go for it.

The turnoff seemed harmless enough, a graded two-lane dirt road winding into the forest. But as I drove further, the path quickly narrowed, eventually dense brush closing in on both sides, fanning up against the doors. I also noticed the road surface was growing softer with sand. I could feel the Jeep occasionally sinking and hear the undercarriage scraping against the ground. I began to seriously second-guess my decision — but if I turned around now, it would have to be in slow reverse, likely leaving me stuck.

Emerging from the brush, the road opened to a fast-flowing creek and wooden bridge crossing. Although old and weathered, it looked sturdy enough…and the visible road beyond it optimistic. I paused, thinking, “This is a bonified route; certainly, it is safe?” As I eased the Jeep over the bridge, however, panic set in as mid-span it began to sway, pop, and creak. That sealed the deal; I’m not going over that again. For me, there was no turning back now.

Pressing forward, I noticed recent tire tracks leading to hunting shacks…reassuring me that people did travel in and out of this place. Still, they were little comfort when, upon cresting a hill, I saw the next obstacle: a stretch of the road submerged in the overflow of a pond.

At this point, I was getting worried. “What if the Jeep gets stuck? What if I need to walk out for help?”…thus far, I hadn’t seen anyone else since the turn-off, and there was no cellphone coverage. My mind began to toy with worst-case scenarios. It was time to assess my situation:

• Five hours remaining daylight
• Three-quarters of a tank of gas
• Three Luna Bars
• Three bottles of water
• Warm jacket
• Hiking boots
• Survival flashlight

Oh, and full damage waiver insurance on the Jeep rental! “I think I’ve got this,” I told myself!

In front of an audience of grazing wild turkeys, I backed up slightly to get a running start and then gunned it. The Jeep hit the water with a resounding splash and went into an icy-like glide. I did not dare tap the brakes, gripping the wheel tight; my heart raced as the tires caught solid ground on the other side. I’d made it! Another 6 miles down the road I was reconnected to cell service and able to check my location, the main entrance road to Crisp Point wasn’t far. I calmed down, appreciating the quiet and afternoon light filtering through the trees.

But the road wasn’t done with me yet.

Rounding a curve, a downed tree blocked the way. My heart sank, but lucky for me, the trees here are not the towering giants of my home state of Washington. With a series of tugs and heaves, I dragged it just far enough along to squeeze the Jeep through. I’d encounter another fallen tree; however, this one, mercifully, was suspended high enough to drive under.

Finally emerging from the backwoods, I reached Northwestern Road, its two-lane groomed gravel surface a comparative superhighway. A sign read: “Crisp Point Lighthouse—10 miles. ” Relieved to have made it out unscathed (save for a Jeep caked in mud), it then occurred to me that I had not taken a single photograph of anything I’d seen along the way…but what an adventure! 

The experience brings to mind a famous quote from Ralph Waldo Emerson: “It’s not the Destination, It’s the journey.”

     

For more information on Crisp Point Lighthouse:

Crisp Point Light Historical Society

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